The Tomb at Konya
Museum by Law, Shrine by Practice
- First attested
- 1274The tomb stands, but little visible fabric is of 1274: TDV puts its present form in the reign of Karamanoğlu Alâeddin Ali Bey (1361-98), and the account of its building — the cost put at thirty thousand dirhams, Gürcü Hatun collecting several times that, Badr al-Dīn of Tabriz supervising — reaches us through Aflākī's Manāqib al-ʿārifīn, begun in 1318, and is cited here at second hand from Lewis (Af 792). The year 673/1274 is TDV's; Aflākī supplies no date. The bodies lie in an underground crypt and the sarcophagi above are cenotaphs — Lewis counts about three dozen for the family and close associates, over fifty in all, not all of them identified — some moved since the shrine became a museum. Lewis also places the green cone not over Rumi's marble cenotaph but at the back of the room over his father's wooden one (pp. 429, 486), against the standard Turkish description; the entry names the dome without settling what it stands over. The republican dates are documentary: Law 677 was adopted on 30 November 1925 and published in the Resmî Gazete on 13 December (no. 243), and its consolidated text (mevzuat.gov.tr 1.3.677) carries amendments but no repeal — penalties raised by Law 5438 in 1949, and a provision added on 1 March 1950 (Law 5566, art. 1; amended 7 February 1990 by Law 3612, art. 5) letting the ministry open to the public those tombs belonging to great Turks or of great artistic value. Haşim Karpuz, in TDV vol. 29 (2004), gives 1 September 1926 for the decision to convert and 2 March 1927 for the opening, under the name Mevlevî Dergâhı Konya Âsâr-ı Atîka Müzesi, the present name following the 1953 removal of the archaeological material to the İplikçi Mosque; a Cabinet resolution of 6 April 1926 is also cited in the Turkish literature and the two 1926 dates are not reconciled here. Lewis's account of the 1953 resumption — Sadettin Heper, once head of the drummers at the Yenikapı lodge in Istanbul, approaching the mayor of Konya — follows Friedlander's The Whirling Dervishes, pp. 106-13. The Ministry of Culture and Tourism counted 3,048,055 visitors in 2024; Lewis records the official 1985 count as 477,290 Turks and 100,105 foreigners.
The turning resumed in a Konya cinema in December 1953 — three musicians and two people in street clothes — licensed only if it was billed as a celebration of a great Turkish poet rather than a religious ritual; Law 677, which dissolved the order in 1925, was amended in 1950 to let the ministry open such tombs, and has never been repealed.
Rumi's grave at Konya: shut by law in 1925, a museum since 1927, visited still as a saint's tomb.
Rumi died at Konya on 17 December 1273, buried beside his father in the Seljuk rose garden. Aflākī reports that ʿAlam al-Dīn Qayṣar went to Sultan Walad about raising a dome and put its cost at thirty thousand dirhams, that the Pervâne's wife Gürcü Hatun collected several times that, and that Badr al-Dīn of Tabriz supervised it; TDV dates it 673/1274, and the fluted cone above, the Kubbe-i Hadrâ, to the Karamanid rebuilding of 1361-98. Law 677, in force from 13 December 1925, closed every dervish lodge and tomb in Turkey and abolished the office of tomb-keeper. Converted by decision in 1926, it opened on 2 March 1927 as the Mevlevî Lodge Konya Museum of Antiquities; Rumi's own name came only in 1954. Three million came in 2024; the December turning is staged across town, not in its own semahane.
Light
The state changed the sign and not much else. The couplet at the entrance still calls the place the Kaaba of lovers, and Franklin Lewis found the visitors reading the Qurʾan and asking for health, wealth and children, as at any saint's grave.
Shadow
UNESCO's 2008 inscription records many sema now performed for tourist audiences, shortened to commercial requirement. Lewis found the shrine the mainstay of Konya's tourist trade, its sema hall closed to Turkish Mevlevis. The December turning is staged by a ministry directorate, the order still dissolved.